Unpacking Your New Prints
Yay! Your new prints have arrived! Now what? WAIT! STOP! I know you’re excited but please read through this article before you do anything. A simple hasty move could damage your print.
This article will walk you through the best way to unpack your fine art prints so they stay in pristine condition, and help you get them ready to frame. If you’ve just ordered your prints, this will let you know what to expect.
A running theme you’ll notice throughout this article is: carefully, gently, care, careful, clean, touching, protection, patience. Avoid touching the front of the print as oils and dust can leave a permanent mark. Some marks will magically show themselves a year later. Use a clean cotton rag or gloves (like the brown jersey work gloves) whenever you need to touch the front side of the print.
Before you start, consult with your flat mates about dedicating a large flat surface to your project for the next day or so. This area shan’t be used for any other purpose during this time period. A coffee table or decorative dining table is perfect. Clean and dry the surface very well.
The printer will carefully roll your prints and ship them in a crush resistant box. Use a box cutter to slice through the tape only, along all the open edges. You want to be able to open the entire box without even touching the roll.
The print is rolled with tissue on its front side for protection. The ends are twisted to help act as a buffer during shipping. On larger prints they may be tucked inside the roll.
Be strong! You’re gonna wanna just unroll it and check it out. DON’T! Gather your faculties and be patient.
Place the roll on your dedicated surface. Carefully and gently unroll the print and tissue until you see just the edge of the print.
Place a large coffee table size book on the edge of the print. Be careful not to bend the corners or crease the paper. Slide the book slowly along so it starts to push the roll open as it covers the back of the print.
For larger prints, use two books so at least the two exposed corners are covered.
When you have no more book to slide, return to the library and select another fine book to follow right behind the first. Continue unrolling until the entire print is covered.
If you have a larger print, use four books, one at each corner. Do two at a time, slide those, then follow up with two more behind. When the last two are on the print, slide the first two at the same time to continue unrolling.
Once the print is fully covered, leave it for a few hours or over night. I know, I know. But believe me, this is one instance where you’ll want to blindly trust and learn from the mistakes of those who have come before you.
The next day, gently remove the books. There is still going to be some curve, but the paper is now more relaxed and less likely to crease. The longer you can leave the print flat with the weight on top, the flatter it will become. A slight curvature as pictured will allow you to carefully continue.
Uhg. I noticed a smoosh wrinkle along one of the edges of this print. Which reminds me… inspect everything as you go. If there are damages to the paper, send me a photo so I can help you out.
This print has a mat that will cover most of the edges so this little wrinkle, while irksome, won’t affect the finished product, so I’m just going to let it be. This is actually a rarity.
With the help of a clean cotton cloth, rag, or gloves (so you don’t accidently touch the print), flip it over and hold it flat by placing the two books along both sides. This is a good time to inspect the print.
The printer does a fantastic job but there’s always a possibility of printer marks or misprints. I haven’t experienced any issues but you never know. If anything looks off or goofy, take a photo and let me know so I can get you a replacement.
This print is sized to pair up with a precut mat board. The full size of the print should be the same size as the outside dimensions of your matting and the frame it’s going in. Align your mat over the top to check they are the same size.
Other prints may simply use the white border for a matting look. These can just go right into the frame.
If your print is smaller than your mat board, you’ll need to mount it. For how to do this, check out these articles:
Mounting Your Artwork Basic Version,
Mounting Your Artwork Pro Version (coming soon)
Clean and inspect the glass of your frame very well. Avoid touching the glass or acrylic so you don’t trap fingerprints on the inside.
When assembling, use an extra backing board behind the print to protect it. Note the small metal ring in the photo from the hardware attached to the frame’s backing. This would damage the print and possibly cause other issues.
DO NOT use cardboard. The acids in cardboard will quickly leach into the print and discolor it. I use backing board specifically made for that purpose, but regular mat board is fine. Try to find something that is sturdy and acid free.
Before locking everything in place, turn the print over and inspect. Is it upside down? Any fingerprints? Any dust particles? (of course there are so disassemble and clean again repeat as needed uhg).
Finally, your new framed fine art print! Congratulations!