Matting Your Artwork, Pro Version
Congratulations on your new artwork! Let’s get that matted and framed. This article covers the best way to mount a print or other artwork to matboard. This is the method I always use. It protects the artwork or print, looks great, and it’s really fairly simple.
Use the right materials. It really makes a difference.
Artwork (or print, or photo). Here I’m going to cover artwork and images on paper, including canvas paper. I’m using a print of “New Day Evening” for this article.
Matboard. You can purchase precut mat in a variety of sizes and colors. Many frames also come with matting for popular size images. Choose a color that enhances the artwork, rather than the room it’s going in or because it’s your favorite color (sorry). Black or white is always a good bet, but be aware that there are different shades of each, especially white, and some may not look good with the art. In this case a contrasting mat works best (antique white). If the background of the art is mostly dark, a lighter mat looks best. If the background is white or light, a darker mat will really make it stand out. If you’re interested in an article on cutting your own matboard, please let me know in the comments at the end of this article.
Backing board. This is an extra piece of matboard the same size as your frame and matboard. You can find this at stores like Hobby Lobby, but you may need to cut it to size. Not only does this help mount your print, it protects it from any hardware attached to the frame backing and provides a tighter fit that keeps everything flat when hung. Do not use cardboard! It definitely will leach chemicals and damage your print. Some folks use foam board. I don’t recommend it because it’s squishy and may not be acid free.
Mounting tape. I use archival mounting tape such as Framers Tape II. This tape is acid free and won’t harm your artwork no matter how many years it’s in place. It’s not very expensive and can be purchased online. Do NOT use masking tape, Scotch tape, or duct tape, as these have acids and other chemicals that will leach into the artwork after a few years and discolor the image.
Painters tape. For temporary positioning. If you don’t have painters tape, stick a piece of masking tape to your shirt once to make it less tacky. Keep track and don’t forget you already have a piece stuck to your shirt.
Scissors. For cutting the mounting tape.
Weight. You’ll need something to hold things in place a little bit. I use an empty coffee mug with a tissue or cloth under it. If you use a coffee mug, make sure it’s empty. It should go without saying, but, well, you know.
We’re essentially going to be making a package that will be inserted into the frame. Line the backing board up with the back side of the matting along what will be the top edge. Create a hinge by running a long piece of mounting tape along the edges where they meet. Note that here I’m using my mug and a piece of painters tape to help hold the mat. Use can also use a ruler to help quide you on where to place the tape (it can be hard to see if your tape is centered). Just lay the ruler a tad more than half an inch from the edge and place the tape close to it. The tape doesn’t have to go all the way to the sides of the mat, but kind of close.
Place the print on the backing board and position it. Usually this is centered, but sometimes you want a little more of a particular edge of the image to show. There’s about a quarter inch overlap from the matting, so there’s some room to move it around. Make sure it’s not crooked and use your mug or other weight to hold it in place. Use a tissue or clean cloth underneath to protect the print.
Carefully fold the matting over and check the position. Adjust as needed. Pay particular attention to the edges so there are no gaps between the matting and the image, and that the image is straight.
Very carefully, so the print doesn’t move, open the matting back up. Mark the backing board at the bottom corners of print with a pencil. A little dot will do. Now you know exactly where to place the print later.
Turn your print over. On the back side of the print, attach the anchoring tape. For this size print (8x10) I use two, larger prints should have three. Space them out evenly (see images below for reference). Place a piece of the mounting tape on the top edge. Go for about a quarter inch or slightly more attached to the print, the rest hanging over as pictured. You can use the edge of your table to press it down. Don’t forget the rest of the tape is live and will stick to whatever you lay it down on! Repeat for the other anchor.
You’ll be covering the excess later with another section of the mounting tape, so make sure it’s shorter than the width of the tape. Trim as needed with scissors.
Carefully, so the excess tape doesn’t stick to something it’s not supposed to, turn the print over and align the bottom corners to the marks you made on the backing board. Use your mug/weight to hold it in place.
I’ve tinted the tape so you can see it. It’s actually white.
For each anchor, cover with a length of the mounting tape two and a half to three times longer than the width of the anchor tape. Fiddly alert! Carefully place the tape just barely beyond the edge of the print and covering the anchor tape. Keep in mind you’re going sticky side to sticky side. The bottom piece has a tendency to jump up and grab the top piece before it’s where you want it. Hard to describe but here’s what I do. Keep the tape you’re placing angled up away from you and align the bottom edge where you want it, then kind of roll it into place.
Fold the matting over and that’s it! Now you have a nice secure package you can just place in the frame. If for some reason you need to remove the tape later, a hair dryer to heat the adhesive can help. With the mounting tape, it’s doable, but still easy to damage your print, so try to leave it forever and ever.